A taste of tradition?

I’m left wondering whether it was the credit crunch or the longing to go back to simpler times which led Marks and Spenser to launch the classic jam sandwich.

Maybe it was a bit of both – people want to save money, and at 75p a pop, the new jam butties are lot cheaper than the average M&S bite. Also, people just love tradition (apparently) and of course, memories of fonder times – especially when the economy is bad and the news if filled with doom and gloom. One woman I know asked ‘do they use that really cheap, white bread? I do hope so. It just has to be on cheap white bread to be an old fashioned jam sandwich’, and thinking about it, yeah, she’s probably in luck. I could almost guarantee they use that really cheap white bread; however, their thoughts are more likely on profit margins rather than good ol’ fashioned tradition.

While a 75p sandwich might make Marks and Spenser seem like the most generous consumer-conscious company in England, I can’t help thinking this is all just another ploy to get money out of the financially ruined customer. It seems like such a good idea – cheap and traditional – but effectively we are paying 75p for two slices of cheap white bread (or at least we hope!) and a smearing of jam. Lucky lucky us.

After all, if this is what we really wanted, and not what Marks and Spenser tell us we want, surely we could save much more money by buying a whole loaf of bread and a jar of jam. At Sainsbury’s (which isn’t even the cheapest of supermarkets), you can buy a 454g jar of jam for 38p and a loaf of white bread for 40p.

So, with a bit of sense (ok, ok, and 3p more) you could actually feast on tradition all week.

Brigadeiro recipe

Street signs, statues, history books, newspaper headlines... all of these are places you would usually expect to see the names of politicians. However, in Brazil, they name their desserts after top political figures.

Why? Because around the time that Nestle was importing condensed milk and cocoa powder to Brazil Brigadier Eduardo Gomes was a very influential figure. The Brigadiero recipe is rumoured to be asociated with him for a variety of reasons. In both 1946 and 1950 he ran for presidency and the women involved in the campaign used the newly imported products to create new desserts named after the brigadier. However, it's also rumoured that the dessert was created by some people who didn't like Brigadier Gomes. He had lost a testicle during the war and it is said that the recipe was named after him because it does not have eggs (egg in Portuguese is slang for testicle).

Whichever reason, the fact still remains that this is one of the tastiest and easiest desserts to make.

All you need is:
Condensed milk (395g)
Cocoa powder (3 or so tablespoons)
Butter (1 tablespoons)
Toppings: choice of chocolate sprinkles, sugar, cocoa powder, grated nuts.

To cook:
1. Heat the condensed milk in a pan on low heat.
2. Add the cocoa powder and butter and stir until both are melted and the mixture is smooth.
3. Keep stirring until the mixture begins to boil slightly and gets a little thick. At this point make sure none of the mixture sticks to the bottom of the pan.

Prepare:
1. Pour the mixture onto a cold plate to cool for 15 minutes.
2. Decide which toppings you want and pour these onto another plate.
3. Rub a little cocoa powder into your hands so the mixture doesn't stick to them
4. Using a spoon scoop up a little of the mixture and then roll into a ball in the toppping of your choice.
5. Leave to set a little longer before eating.

Find Brigadeiros in London at:

Casa da Sogra, 4 Ferdinand Street, Camden
Guanabara, Parker Street, Covent Garden
Canela, 33 Earlham St
Made in Brasil, 12 Inverness Steet, Camden
Casa Brasil, 1st Floor, 71 Charing Cross Road
Brazil by Kilo, 17 Oxford Street

Le Café du Jardin

As nextdoor neighbour to Côte Bistro (see below) it's easy to see why both of these restaurants seem able to co-exist quite amicably – well, I presume. While Cote provides a friendly and relaxed service, large portions and bustling surroundings, Le Café du Jardin seeks to satisfy those who crave attention to detail, a more gormet menu and a quieter almost settled atmosphere – and the proof of all this is in the breadbasket...

Cote provides each table with a large basket of bread to pick from, but nextdoor's bread service seems to be a little more refined. The staff at Le Café du Jardin carefully watch each diner and offer another slice once you've finished your last. It's this difference that rings throughout the service. And whether that's for you or not will undoubedly come down to what type of night you seek.

Regardless of this, it's undeniably both a satisfying and intriging feeling to sit in the window of a Covent Garden restaurant nibbling on tempura frogs legs followed by grilled ostrich. Both choices you don't find nextdoor. Add to this the wine list, which is vast, and listed by region, and you'll soon forget where you are. The rush of London commuters almost seems a world away as the style of service and choice of food is effortlessly French – easily the cheapest way to feel like you've actually escaped the city for a while, which is strange really as you couldn't possibly be more central.

If it wasn't so cold outside the the garden café would be the epitome of it's name – an English country garden meets Paris, feasts on a delicious French meal and is revitalised along the way. Relaxing, charming and sophisticated.

Le Café du Jardin
28 Wellington Street
Covent Garden
London
WC2E 7BD
(Corner of Tavistock Street)

Côte Bistro

Shocking but true, affordable French food can be found in Covent Garden. And what's more, affordable food which actually fills you up. Côte Bistro at the end of Tavistock street is a prime example of what centrally-located restaurants should be like; buzzing a 7pm, packed wall-to-wall with theatre goers enjoying cut-price specials and an extremely enjoyable place to begin the evening.

In true Covent Garden style, it looks rather unassuming from the outside, but when you step through the doors you're greeted by a mass of warming staff and the reassuring bustle of full tables. The rambling of customers resounds from rafter to rafter - all of whom are presumably talking about the size of the dishes, which are not only massive but absolutely beautiful. This may be a little bit odd for a French Bistro, but definitely welcomed - especially the plate of smoked salmon which covered the entire surface of the dish and the linguine with seafood, which although listed under 'light mains' could have easily knocked-out the heavy-weight options.

As the evening draws on, those that were earlier found gossiping in the toilets about their little boy's staring role in Oliver (and the size of the dishes of course) slowly disperse and you're left to finish you're pudding in more peaceful surroundings. It's a change in atmosphere that actually works really well and if you're inclined to finish your meal with a couple of shots of flavoured digestifs then you'll be well on your way to a very entertaining evening.


CÔTE
17-21 Tavistock Street,
London,
WC2E 7PA
020 7379 9991
coventgarden@cote-restaurants.co.uk

Waterloo Brasserie

When you set your menu on fire in a restaurant there’s usually only one thought that makes its way past the rushing flames, and that’s ‘dear God, I hope I don’t burn this place down!’ Luckily, the outstanding factor of Waterloo Brasserie is the efficiency and approachable nature of the staff, who, upon seeing smoking embers rushed over and grabbed the burning menu with their bare hands. If that’s not dedication then I don’t know what is. Embarrassing yes, but in a way, it’s a true test of competence which fortunately they passed without hesitation – although I can’t say I’ll be trying that again.

Set on Waterloo Road, surrounded by hoards of rushing commuters and passing traffic, it’s easy to assume that The Waterloo Brasserie is simply an after work pit-stop or just for those who heading to The Old Vic Theatre later on. However, this is not so. The clever decoration and layout of the bar/restaurant areas pull The Waterloo Brasserie from South London obscurity and turns it into a place that even those dwelling north of the river would happily commute to. The atmosphere is buzzing on the weekend and as the night progresses the restaurant fills from wall to wall. The menu is made up of typical French/European fare, with a good selection of fish – including, for starters, pan-fried scallops wrapped in pancetta and fresh salmon on brioche served with a poached egg. The mains also offered a variety of fish dishes, including snapper, cod, haddock and sea bass, although the more meat inclined were safe with lamb, chicken and the choice of two delicious steaks. The bavette steak was served with shallot sauce and dauphinois potatoes while the Sirloin was served with a red wine sauce. The bavette especially, was extremely tender and even it’s massive size seemed manageable due to the softness of the meat. Out of the fish dishes, the snapper and cod were served together with a passionfruit sauce and artichoke purée. Although both fish were pleasing they were most certainly out-shadowed by the intriguing flavour of the passionfruit and the creamy artichoke purée. The side acts stole the show so to speak.

As for dessert, the crème brûlée actually managed to change my opinion on the dish in general. Not being a fan of the creamy dessert I would usually always order something else, however, this one was light and extremely moreish. Definitely worth checking out. The chocolate pudding was the smaller option of the two and was served with vanilla icecream. A wise choice if you managed to finish one of the steaks.

After the meal you’ll definitely want to take a walk over the bridge and savour the food for a while – after all, the place might not be there for much longer if the staff aren’t at hand to put out the flames!

The Waterloo Brasserie

119 Waterloo Road
London
SE1 8UL
020 7960 0202